In up to 85 work steps, the raw material is transformed by a team of toolmakers, goldsmiths, production assistants, metalworkers, polishers and production engineers. The assortment of watch bracelets manufactured by ARISTO Vollmer in Pforzheim/Germany ranges from the robust-athletic to the stylishly elegant.
According to Hans-Jörg Vollmer, co-owner and grandson of Ernst Vollmer, the founder of Vollmer watch band manufacturing in 1922: "We work with 30 percent stainless steel, 20 percent titanium and 20 percent silver. The rest of our metals are non-precious, such as brass and German silver".
The tradition-rich enterprise has its own set of individual standards with regard to the quality of the raw material. Hansjörg Vollmer reports, "Every tenth watch band to leave our factory is made of solid individual units. Of course this is the most time-consuming and costly method of production. The market today overwhelmingly demands reasonably priced bracelets, and for this type we utilise units of folded sheet metal, which is punched, pressed and rolled".
The company's real strength is the tools and machines of which watch band manufacturers in the Far East are envious. "Our oldest sheet metal punch originates from the 1930s. No current machine is able to get the same kind of results. Because of this, that we act as correspondents for many designers who want to continuously realise new ideas in metal watch bracelets for their timepieces. Or we supply solutions for special problems - on diver watches, for example".
When it comes to classic steel watch bands, Hansjörg Vollmer exhibits the same manufacturing quality standards: "Every single watch band link is individually stamped out of a piece of sheet metal two to four millimeters thick and then pressed into form. Or it gets milled by machine, or even filed down with additional profile rods. After this, the components are linked to one another".
At this stage in the game, the individual watch band links' edges are still sharp and their surfaces rough. The links are then worked, above all polished and fitted. In order to pin and screw the links together, extremely precise, tiny holes have to be drilled. Forms for the folded watch bands are stamped out of thinner sheet metal and formed into links in a press. After this, the edges and surfaces are smoothed.
Another specialty of ARISTO Vollmer is stainless steel watch bands with solid links connected with rolled metal sheets. Hansjörg Vollmer demonstrates several typical work cycles: "First of all I lay two solid parts right and left into a pre-formed, U-shaped piece of sheet metal. The sides of the sheet metal are rolled to the inside through the press and they firmly connect the links. In the same manner – by pinning, screwing, or pressing – we add the clasps to each watch bracelet". Most of the metal link bracelets receive their final appearance either by satin-finishing or polishing, or they get a special effect from galvanised coating.
What catches the eye with the Milanese watch bands on the other hand, is their smooth and softly plaited structure. The name is derived from their place of origin, Milan. Stainless steel, titanium, or non-precious metals in thicknesses of 0.28 to 2 millimeters are used as raw material, supplied on approximately 20 cm high bobbins by wire companies and other suppliers.
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